After a hearty breakfast of oats at 6am, I made my way to the chai shop opposite Sri Ramana’s ashram. A chai, I thought, would be the perfect pick-me-up after only 4 hours of sleep. The main road was already busy with people making their way along the outer path around Arunachala Hill. I was hoping the inner path would be a little less crowded.

After 30 mins of people watching, I set off amidst the throng of Indians towards the inner path. Once on the path, I took it as a good sign when I stood aside to make way for 3 oncoming bulls. Instead, these horned, don’t-mess-with-me beasts, moved aside for me! I think their handler was pretty gobsmacked, usually nothing moves a holy cow out of the way. Perhaps it was my entirely black attire that made them think that Kali was coming through

My heart sank as there were strings of people already on the inner path. I decided not to let this stop me. In my trusty Adidas cross-trainers, I sprinted past at least 100 people when I could. There was no stopping Kali, and it just goes to show that stripes truly do make you go faster!

About 3kms in and the path was clear. Freedom to move at my own pace at last. I was able to stop a few times on the way to take in the different views of the holy hill.

2.5 hours later was not a bad finish time, especially once I hit the main road again at about 9am. The crowds had increased tenfold, and yes, I was the only Westerner silly enough to be doing this… a once in a lifetime event, so why not?

Deepam (read more here) is an annual festival, this year falling on 8 December which attracted over 2 million Indians. Aside from walking around Arunachala Hill, at sunset a fire is lit right at the top of the hill. It is rumoured that a wealthy Indian donated US$15 000 for ghee, that will help keep the fire going for at least 10 days.

The fire is a symbol of enlightenment and a reminder that this is what we should try and attain. Walking around the outer path (about 14km) or the inner path (about 12km) is an attempt to still the mind. Reducing thoughts and stilling the mind results in a reduction of ego presence and enables your higher self to be ever more present.

The walk on the inner path would not be complete without some naked Indians bathing in a very greyish pond; a few obstinate beggars; some guy washing his bum after having a poo (there is a dual purpose for carrying a water bottle in India after all); and of course the quintessential cow patties. Surely cows are allowed to try and overcome their karma in this lifetime too?

tan x